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Color to Dye For
Dyeing
straw can be fun and very rewarding. Whether you use Rit Dyes or
professional dyes it is important to follow the instructions provided
by the manufacture. Good
results can be obtained using Rit dyes and their website is packed
full of valuable information. My
preference is Procion fiber reactive dyes and the following
guidelines are for using these dyes.
(Note by judith: Procion fiber-reactive is a dye type, not a brand name. Many companies offer it. Rit color tends to
fade over time and if you are serious about your craft, purchase professional dyes. Visit our Links section for online resources. Dye Sources)
THE
METHODS
The
most common methods are either tub dyeing or by using the
washing machine. My
preference is to tub dye. I work in the kitchen and use the sink for
prewash, after wash and final rinsing. Its nice if you have 2 or 3
pots going with different colors in each bath. 3-5 straw capelines
can be added to one pot at a time. You want the material to move
freely.
If
you plan to use the washing machine you'll need to adjust your dye,
salt and soda ash amount to the volume of water that your washer
uses. When using the washing machine method - definitely stitch the
edges first using the zig zag stitch on the sewing machine. Trust
me on this - the edges will fray if not basted!
Tub
dyeing:
For
1 lb of dry fabric use 3 gal of water, 3 cups of salt and 1/3 cup of
soda ash fixer. The soda ash is added at the end. Dissolve the soda
ash in water before adding to the bath. It is recommended to remove
your material from the bath first, add the dissolved soda ash, and
then replace the material. The amount of dye to be used will vary
depending on the color of dye and the intensity you seek.
Dharma
has lists and guides for each color to help you select the amount of
dye to be used. Follow those guidelines. Typically one level
tablespoon for 1 lb. of dry fabric. Some dyes require 2 or 4 times
this amount to get deep shades. Use hot tap water, allow the salt to
completely dissolve. Always mix your dye in a separate container, add
hot tap water to dissolve and then add to the bath. Make certain the
dye has completely dissolved before adding to the bath. And add the
fabric last.
The
amount of time you leave the material in the bath will result in
varying shades. Want it darker? Leave the material in the dye bath
for a longer time period.
A
basic supply list:
Procion
dyes - available at Dharma Trading (their website is also packed full
of great info)
Synthrapol:
Synthrapol is a detergent that washes out any impurities in the
straw prior to dyeing and is also used as an after wash - Do not
skip the prewash or you will get spotty and uneven results. Rinse
material in clear water before adding to the dye bath.
Soda
ash fixer - Soda ash permanently fixes the dye to the fabric.
Reduran
- This is a special hand cleanser to remove the dye from you skin.
You don't have to have it but you'll be glad you do especially
if you put your hands into the dye bath as I often do.
Enamel
pot - Like the ones you would use for home canning. (Try your
local hardware store). Keep this pot to use only for dyeing, do not use one of your regular kitchen pots.
Salt
- Buy salt in the 3lb boxes. Salt
helps the dye migrate into the material. Using more salt will allow
more dye to adhere and you'll get a deeper color.
Vinyl
gloves
Tips:
Wear
old clothes.
Keep
the straw immersed in the bath for more even results and
occasionally stir the material in the bath.
Do
not overheat the dye bath as this can kill a color.
Take
notes of all the steps you took and cut a swatch of your results -
You'll be thankful later.
Never
add dry material to your bath. Always prewash with a mild detergent
before immersing in the dye bath.
Follow
your selected dye product instructions.
If
you don't like the results, most times the item can be over-dyed to
a darker color.
Experiment
and have fun! The more times you dye the better you will get at
achieving your desired results.
Mary
Ann Koch Couture Creations http://www.couturehats.com/
Remember,
all of our instructions are general in nature. You will need to
experiment to find what works best for you in your hatmaking situation.
The "HatHelp" column will
focus on a different millinery item or technique each issue and provide
information on hints and how-to's relating to that issue's topic.
Previous articles have dealt with hat veiling, stiffeners and sizing
and working with wire. You may read our previous e-Newsletters in the
Archive on the website. Newsletter Archive
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