Below are some basic instructions for working with hat veiling. We suggest also, that doing a search in Google for "how to make a birdcage veil" will bring up an amazing number of websites with detailed info.

VEILS

VEILING is becoming more popular and a few words on how to handle veiling as a trim might encourage more of you to try it on a hat. It is a great finish and can add a bit of mystique as well.

Usually 27 inches to one yard of veiling is required for the average hat. However some veils are very small and require much less. Sometimes the veiling is too wide for a particular hat. In this event cut off some of the width of the veiling, using the side that has been cut at the top of the hat, turning in the cut part and sewing or tacking in place, on hat. If a small visor veil is used, swirl veiling with a steam iron and let veil dry before sewing in hat. Then cut off all excess veiling inside headsize, after veil has been sewn in hat.

Veiling needs to be softly gathered to hang nicely from the hat. The basic technique is to simply hand baste through each rectangle along one selvage edge and gently gather. Then tack along the front half of the hat, near the edge.

To drape a veil on a hat, pin center of veiling to center of hat. Put hat on Utility head block and drape and fold veiling until desired effect is attained. Or, if you are lucky enough to find a vintage veiling block, it works perfectly for this. A veiling block looks like an over-sized crown block, very round, and usually with a flat circular spot on top for the tip or hat shape block The tip block is not always found with the larger block but almost any small, low crowned block can be used. Carefully stitch through each rectangular meeting of the diamond weaves along the upper edge and gently gather and pin before final tacking to the hat. Tack to hat with thread, not glue.

Gather ends of veiling, (cutting off any excess) wind ends of veil with a thread and tuck ends of veiling under edge of crown or brim or under any fold, here use your own individuality. Ends of veiling may have narrow velvet ribbon sewn on and veil tied at the back of hat.

Before beginning to work with veiling, steam or lightly press with steam iron on low setting. If softer veil is desired, rinse in clear warm water and allow to dry flat before using. If still too stiff, repeat.

(adapted from “How To Make Hats” by Ruby Carnahan, 1952)

BIRD CAGE VEIL

• 3/4 yd. 18" veiling.

Gather ends of veiling together, starting 3" from each end at top of veil and slant shirring to other end of veil (Illus. 1).

Bottom of veil will be 27" and top of veil will be 21". Gather top of veil to fit around front of crown and adjust ends of veil on hat and tack (Illus. 2).

Crush tissue paper up under front of veil and pass through steam, pushing paper against veil as you steam (Illus. 3).

 

 

(adapted from “How To Make Hats” by Ruby Carnahan, 1952)

 

 

For a veil with tab ends, use 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 yds. of veiling. After veil is adjusted on hat, gather in ends of veil and sew beads, buttons, or some other trim to veil ends, lapping veil ends at back of hat (Illus. 4).

Material Needed: 28 inches of standard 9-inch width veiling or 32 inches of 12-inch width

FULL CIRCLE WHIMSEY

1. Join cut ends of veiling and overlap them by one-inch. Handstitch together following the diamond pattern to create a disappearing seam. (If you prefer a 1940s bold seam look, hand or machine sew a running stitch top to bottom.)
2. Baste along the top selvage of veiling, gather tightly by pulling on basting thread and tie off.
3. Pin gathered top end to center top of headblock wtih a push pin and gently pull and adjust veiling lower edge, smoothin out the gathers.
4. Pass quickly over veil with steam to shape the veiling to the rounded block.

 

METHOD FOR A DRAPED WHIMSEY

1. For a whimsey with a short back, forming an upside-down V, do not join the veiling cut ends.
2. Baste along one selvage of veiling, gather tightly by pulling on basting thread and tie off. Pin to center on headblock.
3. Carefully drape veiling around block, pulling ends up in back on each side to within two inches of top, and handsew together.
4. Carefully steam front of veil to fit block. Arrange trimming on top of veil and lightly secure with thread. Use small velvet (or trim of choice) bows to finish off ends of veiling that have been draped up to the top of block.

The veiling can be worn alone or attached to hair using combs or hatpin.

ADDING ACCENTS TO VEILING

Veiling can be embellished with rhinestones, sequins and chenille spots? For the chenille spots, select a pipe cleaner in appropriate color and snip tiny pieces to attach randomly, carefully bending and crimping the pipe cleaner wire to close ends.  For larger chenille spots use a cotton or silk velvet velour fabric and cut out desired shapes to glue onto the veiling. When adding embellishments, pay attention to placement because you do not want them to fall in an odd spot for the face, such as nose, eye and mouth areas.

 

 

Wrap measuring tape around head where you wish to wear a hat. Usually this is from middle of forehead, just above ears, to fullest part at back of head. If your measurement falls in between sizes, choose the larger size. Average headsize today, in the U.S., is 22 1/2". Most ready-to-wear hats will be sized small, medium and large, or one size fits most, whereas a custom made hat will be sized to fit. Many companies are beginning to place an adjustable sweatband inside the hat, making the size fit more variety of heads.

 

Headsize	Headsize	Hat Size	Hat Size	Hat Size
INCHES	METRIC	USA	ENGLISH
20"	51cm	6 ¾	6 3/8	X small
20 ½"	52cm	6 5/8	6 ½
21"	54cm	6 ¾	6 5/8	Small
21 ½"	55cm	6 7/8	6 ¾
22"	56cm	7	6 7/8	Medium
22 ½"	57cm	7 1/8	7
23"	59cm	7 ¼	7 1/8	Large
23 ½"	60cm	7 3/8	7 ¼
24"	62cm	7 ½	7 3/8	XLarge
24 ½"	63cm	7 5/8	7 ½
25"	64cm	7 ¾	7 5/8	XXLarge
25 ½”	65cm	7 7/8	7 ¾
26”	66cm	8	7 7/8	3XLarge

Basic hat making is not difficult, but does require a fair amount of time. The basic techniques for making a hat from straw or felt are the same. There are some good "how to" books and dvds available or, find someone teaching millinery to learn from. Visit our listing of CLASSES  http://www.judithm.com/links/classes offered to locate someone near you.

-any unblocked hat shape

They are also called "blanks".

an unblocked hat shape looking like an upside down bucket, used for deeper crown and narrow brim styles

See our article, "Making a Simple Felt Hat" on creating simple hats using a felt hood.

-an unblocked hat shape looking like a circle with a bump in the middle, used for wider and deeper brimmed styles, also called "brims"

-an unblocked hat shape looking like a scarecrow hat, used for medium size brim styles

Millinery belting is also called petersham ribbon or grosgrain ribbon. It differs from regular grosgrain in that it has an open, saw-tooth edge which allows it to form a curve. This also allows it to lay flat, rather than create puckers or gaps when laid against the inside or outside of a hat crown.

To form a curve: press belting with steam iron on medium low, pulling on upper edge while running over strip with iron. The wider curved edge rests at the bottom of hat crown. This is also called swirling the ribbon. For inner sweatband, pin wider curve of band into crown of hat, 1/8 inch from lower edge. Use stab stitch to attach. For outer band trim, again, place wider curve of band at lower edge of crown. Tack to hat at 2, 4, 8, and 10 o'clock (with center front being 12 o'clock).

Width of belting: Ribbon width is measured in French Lignes, thus one sees #9, for example, listed as the width on a ribbon or belting. To help in understanding this measurement we have provided the following standard millinery belting width chart.

French Lignes		#3	#5	#9	#16	#40
Centimeters		15cm	22cm	37cm	55cm	84cm
Inches		5/8"	7/8"	1-1/2"	2"	3"

There are several options, it all depends on how much too large the hat is for your head and how involved you want to be in adjusting the size. Quick tricks include inserting size reducer tapes behind the inner sweatband.  There are several types in felt or foam that either have an adhesive back or can be tacked in.

Other options include removing the inner sweatband and sizing it to your head and then sewing it back into the hat. If the hat does not have an inner sweatband, adding one will solve your problem. One can also add a band of elastic CoolMax or a size adjustable style that we make. 

Having trouble getting a hat to fit?

If you are wanting to make a hat fit several head sizes, give it an adjustable sweatband. It is a simple and fairly inexpensive adjustable band. Make it using a petersham ribbon in #9 or #16 width. Fold over 1/3 width and sew along that edge creating a casing. Then run a narrow ribbon or elastic through the casing. This allows the wearer to tie the band for a snugger fit. Below are instructions.  You will need #9 or #16 millinery belting (petersham) and a narrow ribbon, rayon seam binding or elastic for the tie.

1. cut a 23-24 inch piece of belting, fold over 3/4-inch and stitch along open edge to form a casing
2. cut a longer piece of narrow ribbon, allowing for ties (approximately 1 yd) and pull through the casing. You now have an adjustable sweatband to sew into the hat.
3. stitch single edge into hat (not folded casing edge) pull and tie off to fit as needed

It takes more time up front, but especially if one is doing shows or marketing to the masses it can be difficult to sell a hat when it is for one headsize and the customer's headsize is another.

There are also a variety of quick fixes to insert behind the headband that can be purchased most anywhere such as the adhesive-backed velcro, or felt weather-stripping. We carry types that are made for millinery use, the adhesive backed foam, a nylon covered foam strips and felt strips.

Here are a few hints on how to work with a felt hood and make your new hat shape. There are five simple hat shape sketches below, each with a name and brief instructions on showing creative but simple ways to shape a hat. (These were developed by fashion editor Katie Hatch for an article entitled "Brimming With Ideas for the Blueprint Fall 2006 Issue.) Beyond the ideas shown in the magazine, additional shaping can be achieved with tea kettle steam, a bowl, damp terry towel and warm iron. Hold the hood above the steaming tea kettle to soften the felted fur, then tug and tweak it into desired shape. You may also select a serving bowl in desired shape, place it upside down and pull the hood over it. (First, cover the bowl with plastic wrap.) The bowl method is especially useful if the hood needs to be larger to accommodate your headsize. Allow the hood to dry in that shape before removing. For a fat roll brim, place a rolled up damp terry towel along the crown of the hood and pull the brim edge up and around the roll of toweling. Allow hood to dry before removing the toweling. If you desire a smoother look or other shaping, press with a warm iron after first laying a damp pressing cloth over that section of the hood. Remove the pressing cloth and again, allow to dry before moving the hat.

If the headsize is too large, you will need an inner sweatband. This can be sewn in by machine or by hand. We carry several types but recommend the size adjustable sweatband as being the most satisfactory.

 

Amelia Fold front and back up, dip at both sides. Press to hold crease.	Flapper Trim the brim of this hood with scissors giving it a shape of a Roaring 20s look. More is cut from the front and back, sides are left longer.	Madeline Turn up the brim all around. Then roll the brim edge in slightly and press to hold.	Paddington Fold up front of brim only.	Robin Fold up back of brim only.

 

Cover a wooden block with plastic wrap, plastic bag, or aluminum foil before each use. This will keep it preserved longer. Spray a light coating of clear polyurethane onto the block periodically (do not do this if using a steam box, as I am not sure how the polyurethane will hold up in high temperatures). Blocks are an expensive tool in the industry and keeping them in good working condition only makes sense. Because they are wood they can develop dry rot or wormwood. They will also crack or chip if not handled carefully.

Cover a wooden block with plastic wrap, or a thin plastic bag (the weight that drycleaners use), or lightweight aluminum foil before each use. Everyone has their own preference among these three options and one may work better for one type of use than another. You will need to experiment to learn which you prefer.  Covering the block before using will keep it  in good working condition for generations to come.  And unless you plan to use the block right away remove the plastic or foil when finished.  Do not store it covered. One other bit of advice about materials used to cover the block. If planning to use the block for making buckram forms, the best cover is the non-stick type of aluminum foil (non-stick side up).  You can easily remove the buckram form when dry without the bother of foil or plastic sticking to the insides of the buckram.

Most new blocks come with a clear polyurethane protection already. At least once a year reapply a light coating of a similar polyurethane finish.  (If using the block in a steam box check the label as I am not sure how the polyurethane will hold up in high temperatures). Vintage blocks benefit from a wipe down with a good quality furniture oil. This renews some of the natural oil and also cleans the wood surface.

The polyurethane crown blocks are inexpensive and come in 4 basic styles.  Cover them before use just as you would the better blocks.

You can also try making your own blocks from sheets of insulation polystyrene foam. The denser the better, I think. The sheets can be cut, sanded and shaped into crown blocks, head blocks and brim blocks. It is a messy and tedious task but when working from a tight budget it gives another possibility for expanding your block inventory.  There is an excellent article in The Hat Magazine, Issue 28 (Jan, Feb, Mar 2006) with Eia Radosavijevic and Hannah Bledstein of Chicago.  It takes you through the steps of carving a block, covering it in buckram and then adding a papiere mache finish.  To order a copy of that issue visit   The Hat Magazine You can also just cover your new block shape in plastic or foil instead of adding the buckram and papiere mache.

Gelatin sizing as with any sizing or stiffener should be applied in many thin coats, to avoid runs and a glumpy look. Also, some straw and felt bodies already have sizing on them. You will notice a difference when working with the body, which should give you a clue whether or not it has been sized. But you can also ask when you purchase the body. The already sized body may require additional sizing, but do this in light layers.

To keep the process as simple as possible, we suggest diluting the gelatin granules with hot water and dissolve thoroughly. A simple method is to place the granules into a bottle, add the hot water, put lid on bottle and shake until all is dissolved (10-15 minutes). Use as a spray, brush on or dip. For spray bottle use, we suggest a ratio of 1 part gelatin granules to 15 parts hot water. The brush on and dip solution can be a bit lower in ratio. Because gelatin sizing is non-toxic and bio-degradeable, it does not store well. Mix only as much as will use in 1-2 days, and store in refrigeration between uses.

Mix this powdered, biodegradable gelatin sizing with water to make an ideal non-toxic, non-flammable solution for stiffening straw, felt and many other items including silk flowers.

• Presoak gelatin crystals in small amount of tap water (enough to cover) for 5 minutes.

• Add boiling water and stir until crystals are dissolved. Allow to cool a bit, before using. Use while warm.

• Sizing solution can be sponged on to hat surface, dipped, or sprayed (note ratio varies for spray use).

• Sponge off excess sizing, steam* and block. *Steaming the hatbody while sizing is still wet forces the sizing from the surface and into the hat fibers.

Instructions from the manufacturer are: After soaking the sizing with cold water for 5 minutes, heat to 150 degrees by adding boiling water. Allow sizing to cool off to 120 degrees. Keep hot while working. This mixture can be sponged on the hats or the hats can be dipped into the same and then placed on a plaster block. Sponge off the surplus sizing. For best results and to eliminate spotting, run hat through a wringer, adjusting the pressure on the rollers to the stiffness you require on the hat.

When the hats dry, they will be covered with a sort of white dust. In order to prevent this after the hats have been dipped and run through the wringer, they should be steamed thoroughly while they are still wet. The steam forces the sizing off the surface of the hat and the hats will be perfectly clean.

WIRE, WIRE, EVERYWHERE! That is what you will have if not careful upon opening a coil of brim wire.
MILLINERY WIRE - is used for providing shape and definition to a hat brim edge or crown, to reinforce wide brims or to construct skeleton frames. Our millinery wire is rayon covered in black or white, available in four gauges - #18, #19, #21 and #23 -the lower number is the heavier gauge.  We sell the wire in 20 yard or 60 yard coils. Gauge #19, #21 and #23 can also be purchased by-the-yard. Wire comes in a coiled roll and tied together with small wires or twisties. Because of being stored in the tight coil, millinery wire has a natural curve and will spring open if given half a chance. Don't let your wire get away from you. Handle it firmly and gently to avoid a jumbled mass of tangled and kinked wire.

TIP: Covered wire comes only in black and white and our hats are many colors.   The white wire may be colored with magic markers or water color pencils to obtain a color that will blend with your hat material.

How to use HAT WIRE?

To open a coil of millinery wire and begin using it first,  hold the coil firmly in one hand. Keep in mind that it is wound like a spring and you need to release the tension in the coil before you use it. With a needle-nose pliers, open and remove the small ties that keep the coil bundled together. Continue to keep hold of the wire coil with one hand while you do this so it won't spring apart into a twisted mess. Once you have removed the restraining ties, slowly and gently ease up on your grip and allow the wire to relax and open in a controlled manner in your hands becoming a looser circle of wire.

When not using the wire, hang the coil on a peg. You may want to gently retie the wire in it's looser coil to help it hold together and not tangle. Storing the coil of wire safely will make your task easier the next time you want to fine and use it.
Some milliners prefer straightening the wire length they plan to use as it can twist inside the hat if not handled properly, creating a distorted shape.  There will be places on a hat where you will need straight pieces of wire, but as a general rule, do not straighten out the wire. Since wire already has a gentle curve it is ready for use. It is advantageous to avoid working against the natural curve in the wire whenever possible. If you need a larger arc than you find in the wire naturally or wish to straighten a section, use your hand to relax the curve in the wire by running the wire through your fingers while your thumb gently presses it into a broader arc. Do this slowly, applying firm even pressure, because doing this too fast will heat the rayon cover causing minor burns to your finger tips and kinks in the wire.  Make sure your hands are clean before you begin to manipulate wire. Even though it will eventually be covered, you want to keep the wire as clean as possible.

Joining wire ends
Wire will not stretch, so care must be taken to measure accurately. There are a couple of ways to join the ends of your wire. My favorite method is wrapping the ends with thread. Using strong millinery thread, begin at one end of the overlapped wires and wrap tightly.  Allow 2 inches overlap if you plan to bind with the thread method.

A second popular means of securing the ends of a wire is with a joiner. Joiners are also called ferrules, connectors or clasps.  Hat Wire connectors are tiny tubes into which you can slide the cut ends of the wire to create a circle.  We offer them in steel, brass and plastic.

• The steel joiner fits #19, #21 and #23 wire
  
• The brass joiner will fit #21, #23 and 1.35mm nylon wire
  
• The plastic joiner comes in two diameters to accommodate all the wire sizes.

If using a metal joiner when connecting the two ends of millinery wire together, place a wire end into the joiner from either side and pinch joiner closed using a crimping tool or needle-nose pliers.

TIP: Brass joiners will not rust but are a softer metal which can snap over time. The steel joiners will rust eventually. We suggest applying a coat of clear nail polish to delay the rusting process.

To use the plastic joiner, insert wire ends into the joiner and overlap one inch. Apply heat from heat gun or flame, joiner will shrink to grip wire. Do not place directly into flame. Allow to cool before handling.

Spring Wire (this wire is not currently being made due to not enough demand)
Spring wire is strong, uncovered tempered steel wire and is used for the edge wire of very large hats and also for making medium-sized and large hats with brims in which no brace wires are used. It comes in a 20yd coil and has a silicone coating to help prevent or slow down the process of rusting.

Spring wire is used in packable hats that get twisted in a figure eight folding shape for storage because it has memory and will spring back into shape when opened. TIP: wipe excess silicone coating from wire when ready to use and coat with clear nail polish instead.

Nylon Wire
Another type of support wire is the clear nylon monofilament, much like a heavier fishing line.  It has a memory, is washable, and will not rust. It is also known as Brimlock or Brimreed.  It will retain its shape if set under heat. Because of its memory aspect and being washable  the nylon wire is perfect for cloth hats, or anywhere you want a slight definition to the shape.

For best results, setting should be done in the final blocking, with a temperature of approximately 275 degrees Fahrenheit (135 degrees Celsius). The hat should be kept at this temperature for 60 seconds. The 1.35mm is comparable to the #21 gauge and the 1.50mm would be comparable to #19 gauge wire. A heat gun can be used for this purpose.

Attaching Wire to the Hat
The most common stitches for securing wire to the edge of a brim are a buttonhole stitch for hand sewing and a wide zig-zag stitch when using a sewing machine.  It is important to sew the wire to the edge, not on top or under the brim edge. The stitch width should be only the depth of the wire. If the stitch is too deep, the wire will slip away from the edge and can cause an uneven looking finish to the brim.

RESOURCES
Book titles with excellent information on millinery wire uses:
Basic Millinery For The Stage  by Tim Dial
From The Neck Up  by Denise Dreher
Hats: design and Construction  by Stella V Remiasz

Brimlock has memory and acts like spring wire in that respect. It is a clear nylon monofilament, does not rust and is washable. Most manufactured straws and felts use it now. Brimlock works great for soft hats and flat pattern hats by giving definition to the brim or crown. The same for crochet or knit hats. Brimlock can be twisted in a figure eight so is great when used in packable hats. The ends can be overlapped and wrapped with thread to hold. We have a new product , plastic joiners, that work well for joining Brimlock or metal brim wire. These joiners will shrink with heat and grip the ends of the Brimlock.

The plastic joiners come in two sizes to fit both Brimlock and covered wire. The brass joiners will fit covered wire, but only the 1.35mm size of Brimlock.

When using brass or other metal joiners, place each end of wire into the joiner and crimp tightly with pliers. This works best if done with regular crimping pliers.

There are several different types of buckram:

One-ply buckram is a woven cotton fabric that is sized according to the end use. It is sold by the yard in 60” or 30” widths. There are several weights of one-ply buckram – light, medium, and heavy. It is used to make foundation hat frames for fabric hats. One-ply buckram is used for pattern and blocking of fabric hats but can also act as a support in blocked straw or felt hats.

One-ply heavy buckram  can be made stiffer by steam ironing two layers together. Because of the heavy sizing they tend to stick together; however, it is best to baste them together to insure they don’t move. If blocking, just dampen and put double layers over the block shape.  CAUTION: Remember to use a non-stick aluminum foil for first covering the block when using buckrams. As it tends to stick to the inside of the shape otherwise.

To remove from block, slip a corset stay or other strong, flat, flexible object such as a butter knife, under the buckram and against the block to loosen. Be careful not to stretch or misshape the blocked buckram.

• One-ply heavy – Use for blocking or flat pattern hats that require a sturdy frame foundation. This is a coarse weave cotton, heavily sized, resembling needlework template. Thread count is 17/20 per inch.
• One-ply medium – Use for blocking or flat pattern hat making. It is a fine weave sized cotton and the thread count is 26/30 per inch.
• One-ply light – This is a finer weave sized cotton and the thread count is 48/50 per inch. It is often used as a foundation for ribbon and trim work.

One-ply crinoline is used as a foundation for ribbon and trim work or crown construction for very light weight hats. The thread count is 40 per inch. It is a gauzy-look weave of lightly sized cotton and is 39-inches wide. It also is useful for pattern draping when working out a design.

Two-ply buckram (crown buckram) is a heavily-sized cotton fabric in which a plain weave cotton fabric is attached to a finer plain weave cotton fabric. It is used for making very stiff foundation hat frames and costumes for the theatre. Normally the finer buckram is used on the inside of the hat frame. Crown buckram is sold by the yard, normally 40” wide, and is widely used for costumes and bonnet making.

About the Care and Use of Buckram

Buckram hat frames are not perfect and that is the nature of the craft. Just remember that the hat frame will be covered with batting and fabric and most imperfections in the hat frame will not be seen once you use the techniques described below.

Styles of buckram hat frames vary according to the blocks and machinery the frame maker has. You may be able to get one style from one retailer but not another.

Some buckram hat frames will develop a ‘dent’ or crease in the crown, side band, or brim. To remove them, hold a steam iron over the dent, steam it, and gently press the dent by using a damp towel or tailor’s ham along with the steam iron to remove any dents or creases.

Buckram should not be washed as the agitation of washing and rinsing will remove the sizing and leave a limp piece of fabric. Buckram can be used when dampened or wet if you are using a hat block or some other shape to mold it in a specific shape. Normal dampening or wetting for this process does not remove the sizing. Be careful not to wet it excessively.

Buckram can be used to make a flat pattern hat if you have a pattern and make your own hat frames. The outline of each pattern piece should be traced to the buckram using a felt tip pen. You then cut the pattern piece from the buckram and sew the pieces together using #19 millinery wire that provides support and strength while maintaining the shape. When using this method, remember to mark center front, center back and the center of each side, when applicable. This is a method to keep your pattern pieces aligned.

RESHAPING A HAT BRIM

Hold the hat over steam (teakettle is fine). Gently manipulate the brim into it's previous shape. Or, using a wet terry towel and hot iron - lay the brim between layers of toweling, if it is a flat brim style, and run a medium heat iron over it. If the brim is a turned up style, lay a rolled up wet towel inside the brim, place a second wet towel on the outside, run the iron over the covered brim. Some straw and felt may require a fresh application of stiffener or sizing.

HINTS ON HOW TO RESTORE AN OLDER HAT

Adding Life to your Hat

Here are a few basic tips on caring for a hat and how to keep your hat in wearable condition. As you put away hats of one season and bring out those for the next, take a moment to examine each hat for stains or damage. Taking time now will lengthen the hat's life. Below are a few simple techniques to use in cleaning and storing your hat. My suggestion is to always try the least invasive method first. If it does not succeed in removing the dirt or stain, try one of the other steps.

Straw: First, get rid of the surface dust. Take hat outside and blow off dust using a can of compressed gas duster (found at office supply stores).

a. Use mild soap and water with a soft bristle brush and gently scrub surface. Repeat with clear water to rinse.

b. Use a homemade formula for simple stains. Mix the following ingredients and rub lightly with a soft cloth. If it is a dark color mix ½ teaspoon ammonia and ¼ cup water. For lighter colors mix ½ teaspoon and ¼ cup water. For lighter colors mix ½ teaspoon of hydrogen peroxide and ½ teaspoon of warm water. Always do test on hidden part of hat before trying it on the visible stain.

Felt: First, place hat in paper bag and put in the freezer compartment for several days. This will cause dust to rise to surface. Remove from freezer and take out of doors to gently beat with soft bristle brush so dust will fly away.

a. Gently rub with a dry sponge, rubbing the sponge over the stain in a circular, counterclockwise motion.

b. For soiled spots, scrub gently with mild soap and water using soft bristled brush. After area has dried, rub lightly with fine sandpaper to raise and freshen nap.

For both straw and felt, be careful not to get the hat too wet as it may shrink and lose it shape.

Sweatbands: To clean the sweatband, use a small soft bristle brush dipped in soap and water and scrub lightly. Be careful to only get the sweatband wet. If this does not get it clean, consider replacing the inner sweatband. Use a millinery belting, also called "petersham or French belting". It looks a lot like grosgrain ribbon but differs from regular grosgrain in that it has an open, saw-tooth edge which allows it to form a curve, and to lay flat, rather than create puckers or gaps when laid against the inside or outside of a hat crown. Remember that moths are attracted to human sweat and are more likely to settle on your favorite hat than the one you rarely wear.

Spots: Additional tricks to try include gently daubing the spot with white or colored chalk, baking soda, or talcum powder. Or try lightly sanding the area with emery or extra fine fine sandpaper.
Steam: will perk up wilted flowers, ribbons, and bows. Be careful not to over steam them. Use a dress steamer or teakettle steam if you do not have a hat steamer.

How you handle your hat will also add life to your hat. -Remember to pick up your hat by the brim and that two hands are better than one. Try not to pick up a hat by the crown.
-Do not store a hat inside a plastic bag if the hat is made of a natural fiber. Natural fibers need to breath.
-Do not store a hat on its brim. Some suggest storing a hat upside down. I prefer to rest the hat on a circle of posterboard stuffed with tissue. It is simple to make. Using regular poster board, cut a strip slightly wider than the depth of the crown. Form a cylinder, staple or tape the overlapping ends and stuff it with tissue. Rest you hat on this new "hatstand".

This is very basic info and does not cover everything. We do carry a line of cleaners for felts and straws. Click on the link to visit that area of our website.  Cleaners & Protectants

Remember, all of our instructions are general in nature. You will need to experiment to find what works best for you in your hatmaking situation.

 

Ostrich & Peacock feathers and boas:

Feathers naturally "dry out" over a period of time and lose their fluffiness. To restore feathers to a fuller look, we recommend starting by agitating (gently shake ) and steaming them. HOW: rub the feathers or boa between your hands, gently but firmly. This brings out the "feather flue" and makes the strands more fluffy. Next, hold each individual feather over tea kettle steam to open feather. Once the feather has opened more steaming has little or no effect.

If the feathers are soiled, wash in warm soapy water, using mild soap. The best means of drying feathers is in a clothes dryer on low heat. Tumbling in the dryer seems to help them fluff up to there natural shape more easily. They may also be dried naturally in open air, but not direct sunlight. Never dry with direct heat. When dry, steam the feathers to help them fluff out.

Dyed feathers are not colorfast. Do not mix colors when washing.

Pheasant feathers:

During shipping or storage, pheasant feathers can become a little ruffled. To restore the feathers to their naturally smooth shape, simply steam them as above and then gently run your fingers from the bottom of the pointed stem upwards in a graceful movement. This will make the feather narrrow down and come together again.

STORE ALL FEATHERS IN A COOL DRY PLACE AFTER USE.

There are semiannual apparel shows in LA, NY, Dallas, Las Vegas and Chicago and I encourage you to attend one or more of those to locate product sources for your shop.  In general the shows are connected to the fashion industry trade and mart centers.

Besides attending a show, contact your local and state government centers for small business. They have lots of information on getting started.

Felt skirting is a traditional term used for the fur felt made through the 1940s. Generally it was tube shaped and offered in various lengths. It was used for turbans and small draped hats. There is a comparable flat fur felt now available through some suppliers. 

Flat Felt yardage is also making a comeback and is available in 100% wool and wool blend yardage. Draping is the preferred method of use but it also does well in flat pattern work and is blockable.

The craft felts being made are not great for hat making.

Currently the word "milan" is used rather than leghorn. It simply means finely braided wheat straw.  Chip braid I believe refers to a style of onionskin braid which can be found new and in vintage lots.

Many of the steps are identical, but regular straw is not as forgiving as raffia and should be used damp to avoid breaks. The man-made fiber braiding can be worked with dry. The ease or difficulty in working with this will depend on the braid pattern or weave, and width.

There are several books I can suggest for hat braiding - if you want to learn how to hand sew a braided (strip straw) hat and also create the braid try "Raffia Hat Making" by Ann Fennell. This book gives clear instructions and has excellent photos for each step. She also has a second book with other braid techniques, "Raffia Hats and Bags". Another book with good instruction of making hats with braiding is R.L.Shep's book, "Edwardian Hats". It shows several options for using braiding to make a hat.

We are not aware of any book showing actual construction of a hat using a machine. There are some milliner's that do this and you might find one to teach you. Periodically we offer a two-day class on making a hand sewn braided hat. Check our EVENTS schedule for dates. Personally, creating a handsewn braid hat is a relaxing activity which I enjoy.

A popular look, and one of my personal favorites, there are many cloche styles to create. A cloche has a deeper crown and fits close to the head. It can be brimless or have a narrow brim. As with other hat styles, the cloche can be made from a "cut and sew" pattern, crochet or knit patterns, or a blocked style made from a hood (usually straw,  rice paper or felt). Look for an old crown block in the shape you want, or be creative and make one. A few block sshapes can be special ordered from block makers. See the Supply Resources in our LINKS section.

by Mary Ann Koch, Couture Creations

Dyeing straw can be fun and very rewarding. Whether you use Rit Dyes or professional dyes it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacture. Good results can be obtained using Rit dyes and their website is packed full of valuable information. My preference is Procion fiber reactive dyes and the following guidelines are for using these dyes. Remember to practice safety habits, wearing vinyl gloves and a face mask for protection.

(Note by judith: Procion fiber-reactive is a dye type, not a brand name. Many companies offer it. Rit color tends to fade over time and if you are serious about your craft, purchase professional dyes. Visit our Links section for online resources. Dye Sources)

THE METHODS

The most common methods are either tub dyeing or by using the washing machine. My preference is to tub dye. I work in the kitchen and use the sink for prewash, after wash and final rinsing. Its nice if you have 2 or 3 pots going with different colors in each bath. 3-5 straw capelines can be added to one pot at a time. You want the material to move freely.

If you plan to use the washing machine you'll need to adjust your dye, salt and soda ash amount to the volume of water that your washer uses. When using the washing machine method - definitely stitch the edges first using the zig zag stitch on the sewing machine. Trust me on this - the edges will fray if not basted!

Tub dyeing:

For 1 lb of dry fabric use 3 gal of water, 3 cups of salt and 1/3 cup of soda ash fixer. The soda ash is added at the end. Dissolve the soda ash in water before adding to the bath. It is recommended to remove your material from the bath first, add the dissolved soda ash, and then replace the material. The amount of dye to be used will vary depending on the color of dye and the intensity you seek.

Dharma has lists and guides for each color to help you select the amount of dye to be used. Follow those guidelines. Typically one level tablespoon for 1 lb. of dry fabric. Some dyes require 2 or 4 times this amount to get deep shades. Use hot tap water, allow the salt to completely dissolve. Always mix your dye in a separate container, add hot tap water to dissolve and then add to the bath. Make certain the dye has completely dissolved before adding to the bath. And add the fabric last.

The amount of time you leave the material in the bath will result in varying shades. Want it darker? Leave the material in the dye bath for a longer time period.

A basic supply list:

• Procion dyes - available at Dharma Trading (their website is also packed full of great info)

• Synthrapol: Synthrapol is a detergent that washes out any impurities in the straw prior to dyeing and is also used as an after wash - Do not skip the prewash or you will get spotty and uneven results. Rinse material in clear water before adding to the dye bath.

• Soda ash fixer - Soda ash permanently fixes the dye to the fabric.

• Reduran - This is a special hand cleanser to remove the dye from you skin. You don't have to have it but you'll be glad you do especially if you put your hands into the dye bath as I often do.

• Enamel pot - Like the ones you would use for home canning. (Try your local hardware store). Keep this pot to use only for dyeing, do not use one of your regular kitchen pots.

• Salt - Buy salt in the 3lb boxes. Salt helps the dye migrate into the material. Using more salt will allow more dye to adhere and you'll get a deeper color.

• Vinyl gloves

• Face mask
  

Tips:

• Wear old clothes.

• Keep the straw immersed in the bath for more even results and occasionally stir the material in the bath.

• Do not overheat the dye bath as this can kill a color.

• Take notes of all the steps you took and cut a swatch of your results - You'll be thankful later.

• Never add dry material to your bath. Always prewash with a mild detergent before immersing in the dye bath.

• Follow your selected dye product instructions.

• If you don't like the results, most times the item can be over-dyed to a darker color.

Experiment and have fun! The more times you dye the better you will get at achieving your desired results.

Remember, all of our instructions are general in nature. You will need to experiment to find what works best for you in your hatmaking situation.

 

"If you rebel against high heels, take care

to do so in a very smart hat."

--George Bernard Shaw

 

Emily Post, Etiquette: The Blue Book of Social Usage (1959)
. . . It is impossible for a hatless women to be chic.

 

Hedda Hopper: I can wear a hat or take it off, but either way it's a conversation piece.

Milliners never seem to have any difficulty discovering geometrical shapes wholly unknown to mathematicians.

-Evan Esar

Charity covers a multitude of sins, but hats cover more sinners.

 

"If you are going to wear a hat at all, be decisive and go the whole hat. In making a courageous choice of millinery, you have nothing to lose but your head."

The Bedside Guardian, 1962

The greatest undeveloped territory in the world lies under your hat.

One cannot be neutral in the presence of a hat. It sends a message. ...Hats create amazing possibilities.
Patricia Underwood

When I was six I made my mother a little hat - out of her new blouse."
Lilly Dache

 

Why mind the fashion? Wear a big hat and be comfortable.

- Little Women

 

Hats are such an infectious pleasure.  Why not?

Kate Pernia

 

Use your head, wear a hat!